Monday, October 27, 2008

Mendoza, Argentina











My plans for Mendoza was to come here so that I could climb or at least attempt to climb Aconcagua, S. America's highest peak. Unfortunately for me the park doesn't open up for another 3 weeks and I don't really want to sit around and wait for that long. Mendoza must be the wine capital of the world cause there are wineries everywhere. I decided to not spend too much time here and move on into Chile and the 6 hour bus ride between Argentina and Chile was probably one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen in my life. It was disappointing to pass by the peak of Aconcagua and know that this go round I am not going to get a chance to climb it! It is going on my list of things to do post this big trip.

Cafayate, Argentina













Cafayate, although it's not a big city there is plenty of cheap activities to do. Here I went on a 1 day hike to see some waterfalls and the next day I went on a 50k bike ride up one of the most brilliant canyons I've ever seen. Another popular thing to do here is take a tour of a winery, which there are plenty of and here you can get a bottle of wine cheaper then a bottle of water. (Approximately 1-3$ for a bottle)

Salta, Argentina
















When I got to Argentina I was amazed when I crossed the border in that I felt like I was back in the United States again. Finally, a restaurant that has different food then the typical rice and chicken plate!! Unfortunately the prices compared to Bolivia is about double and my activities are going from doing what I want, to budget traveling and finding ways to do things a little cheaper. For example, they have a 1 day train ride that is said to have amazing views, but it was 140 dollars, so instead I rented camping gear and hiked up the railroad tracks with a combination of hitchhiking. This way I saved a ton of money and spent around 20 dollars for 3 days instead of $140 for 1 day. I probably saw more and got a ton of exercise but it is so dry and hot I had to carry a lot of food and water and over did myself a bit. My pack probably weighed about 75 lbs, I was sore for a week after, and my hips were a little bruised but I am feeling better now! Northern Argentina is very different from what I have seen so far, and I have really enjoyed my time seeing this dry and colorful part of the world.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Tupiza, Bolivia






Yee Haw!!.......Here in my last stop in Bolivia I went on a 7 hour horseback riding trip. The views were amazing and Bolivia is right there at the top as one of my favorite places so far. Seven hour proved to be a little long on a horse because the next day I was so sore I couldn´t move and it really hurts to sit right now. Tomorrow I´m heading into Argentina and I am going to enter new Country number 11.....YEAH!

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Uyuni, Peru








This hotel is made completely out of salt blocks.



Here we saw a mini tornado.









Here in Uyuni I took a 3 day tour of the Solar de Uyuni (Salt Flats). This is up there as one of the most amazing things I have seen so far. Besides the salt flats there is everything from geysers and hot springs to active volcanoes and rock formations that will blow your socks off. We also visited a variety of lakes that varied in color from red to white to green! If I was making a list of things to do in my life, I would add that one! For 3 days we rode around in a Toyota Land Cruiser and it seemed like every hill was something completely different! On top of a great place to visit, I was with a great group of people and I really enjoyed everything about it!!!


Salar de Uyuni

From Wikipedia

Piles of salt at Salar de Uyuni.
When it is covered with water, the Salar de Uyuni reflects the sky.
Salar de Uyuni (or Salar de Tunupa) is the world's largest salt flat at 10,582 km² (4,085 square miles). It is located in the Potosí and Oruro departments in southwest Bolivia, near the crest of the Andes, 3,650 meters high. The major minerals found in the salar are halite and gypsum.

Formation
Some 40,000 years ago, the area was part of Lake Minchin, a giant prehistoric lake. When the lake dried, it left behind two modern lakes, Poopó Lake and Uru Uru Lake, and two major salt deserts, Salar de Coipasa and the larger Uyuni. Uyuni is roughly 25 times the size of the Bonneville Salt Flats in the United States.

Economic influence
Salar de Uyuni is estimated to contain 10 billion tons of salt, of which less than 25,000 tons is extracted annually. All miners working in the Salar belong to Colchani's cooperative. Every November, Salar de Uyuni is also the breeding grounds for three species of South American flamingos: the Chilean, James's and Andean flamingos. It is also a significant tourist destination; highlights include a salt hotel and several so-called islands. As it is so flat it serves as a major transport route across the Bolivian Altiplano.

Satellite calibration
Due to its large size, smooth surface, high surface reflectivity when covered with shallow water, and minimal elevation deviation, Salar de Uyuni makes an ideal target for the testing and calibration of remote sensing instruments on orbiting satellites used to study the Earth. In addition to providing an excellent target surface the skies above Salar de Uyuni are so clear, and the air so dry, that the surface works up to five times better for satellite calibration than using the surface of the ocean. In September 2002 a team took detailed GPS elevation measurements of a portion of the salt flats. This GPS data was then compared to the data from several ICESat passes over the area were used to evaluate the accuracy and precision of ICESat's instruments.

Potosi, Bolivia


Here safety is very important. On this tour we start out by going to a shop to buy some explosives before we take a tour of the mine. Our guide who is about 18 lights them with a long fuse and hands them to us and asked if we would like a picture.



Potosí is a city, the capital of the department of Potosí in Bolivia. It is claimed to be the highest city in the world at a nominal 4,090 m. It lies beneath the Cerro de Potosí — sometimes referred to as the Cerro Rico ("rich mountain") — a mountain popularly conceived of as being "made of" silver ore, which has always dominated the city. Cerro de Potosí's peak is 4,824 meters (15,827 feet) above sea level.

Founded in 1546 as a mining town, it soon produced fabulous wealth, becoming one of the largest cities in the Americas and the world with a population exceeding 200,000 people.

Miners at work
In Spanish there is still a saying, valer un potosí, "to be worth a potosí" (that is, "a fortune"). For Europeans, Peru — Bolivia was part of the Viceroyalty of Perú and was known as Alto Perú before becoming independent — was a mythical land of riches. Potosí appears as an idiom for "extraordinary richness" in Miguel de Cervantes' famous novel satirizing chivalry, Don Quixote (second part, cap. LXXI). One theory holds that the mint mark of Potosí (the letters "PTSI" superimposed on one another) is the origin of the dollar sign.
It is from Potosí that most of the silver shipped through the Spanish Main came. According to official records, 45,000 tons of pure silver were mined from Cerro Rico from 1556 to 1783. Of this total, 7,000 tons went to the Spanish monarchy. Indian labour, forced by Francisco de Toledo, Count of Oropesa through the traditional Incan mita institution of contributed labor, came to die by the thousands, not simply from exposure and brutal labor, but by mercury poisoning: in the patio process the silver-ore, having been crushed to powder by hydraulic machinery, was cold-mixed with mercury and trodden to an amalgam by the native workers with their bare feet. The mercury was then driven off by heating, producing deadly vapors.
To compensate for the diminishing indigenous labor force, the colonists made a request in 1608 to the Crown in Madrid to begin allowing for the importation of 1500 to 2000 African slaves per year. An estimated total of 30,000 African slaves were taken to Potosí throughout the colonial era. African slaves were also forced to work in the Casa de la Moneda as acémilas humanas (human mules). Since mules would die after couple of months pushing the mills, the colonists replaced the four mules with twenty African slaves. (Angola Maconde 1999)
After 1800 the silver mines became depleted, making tin the main product. This eventually led to a slow economic decline. Still, the mountain continues to be mined for silver to this day. Due to poor worker conditions (lack of protective equipment from the constant inhalation of dust), the miners still have a short life expectancy with most of them contracting silicosis and dying around 40 years of age. It is estimated that, in the past years of indigenous labour, roughly 8 million Indians died, "eaten" by the Rich Hill

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My tour through Cerro Rico included a trip deep down to where they were working a right back out. We were inside of the mine for about 2 hours and it was probably one of the most dangerous things I have done so far. I could barely stand going down and coming out, more less working 10-20 hours a day. I vowed that when I return I will put a picture of me in that mine above my desk to remind me how lucky I really am to have such a great job no matter where I work!

This has changed me forever!!!

Thursday, October 9, 2008

La Paz, Bolivia






Crossing the border into Bolivia was slightly a nightmare since I had to give a copy of my passport, credit card, a 2" color photo of me, and the only person passing into Bolivia required to pay since their new president loves America so much, they decided to only charge Americans a wonderful $135 dollars to enter! Arriving in La Paz was like every other big city in South America. My first day walking around the city I was with a guy from Germany who got pick pocked while I was there. One really exciting thing to do in La Paz, the worlds highest capital is go for a bike ride down the worlds most dangerous road! Unfortunately the road is not really that dangerous anymore since the traffic is what made it dangerous but the views and the fact there is a cliff along the side of the entire road make it a site worth visiting. Another tour I took was inside San Pedro Prison. Here you call a guy who is in the prison for drug trafficking and there are no guards inside of the prison either. For about 4 hours we walk around the prison and talk to the people who are inside the prison and at the end of the tour they offer to sell you Cocaine. When I entered the prison the guys inside were intimidated by my size since I was larger then anyone inside the prison. On top of that they thought I was an undercover police officer or with the DEA and they told me such a different story from everyone else it was hilarious. When I left they told people that they knew that I was a Cop and that I admitted it when I left. The reality of it is they were all so strung out on Cocaine that they had white boogers running out of their faces. The history of this prison is very interesting and if you want to know more about it read the book Marching Powder. Here is a brief cut of the history on this prison. Everything here holds true to what I have seen!
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San Pedro prison
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

San Pedro prison is the largest prison in La Paz, Bolivia renowned for being a society within itself. Significantly different from most correctional facilities, inmates at San Pedro have jobs inside the community, pay or rent their accommodation, and often live with their families. The sale of cocaine base to visiting tourists gives those inside a significant income and an unusual amount of freedom within the prison walls. Elected leaders enforce the laws of the community, with stabbings being commonplace. The prison is home to approximately 1,500 inmates, with additional guests staying in the prison hotel.

The book Marching Powder, written by Rusty Young about his experiences during a four month visit to the prison, was published in 2003.

Prison layout
The prison is divided into eight sectors with varying degrees of luxury, and cells are bought or rented for the duration of a prisoner's sentence. The wealthiest area provides inmates with private bathrooms, a kitchen, and cable television; such cells are sold for around $1,500-1,800 Bolivianos. One inmate paid for a second floor extension to be built on his cell, giving him views across the city. However, most of those inside the prison live in cramped conditions with it being common for single-room cells to accommodate five people.
Almost all living sections contain market stalls and places to play games such as billiards, poker, chess, or in some, video games. The canteen and restaurants are owned and run by the inmates, while other places sell ingredients for those with kitchens to cook for themselves.
One of the larger open areas doubles as a small football pitch, with teams representing each sector regularly competing. Within the walls there is also a hotel for visiting guests, a hospital, and multiple churches.

Demographics
Aside from the 1,500 prisoners and the guards there are numerous others inside the prison walls. The wives and children of the inmates often stay inside the walls but are allowed to come and go as they please. Without the income of the husband they often cannot afford to live by themselves in the city. They will often provide an important link with the outside and can bring items into the prison that are sold on the market stalls or directly from cells. The 200 children are cared for in two nurseries inside the prison walls or are educated in nearby schools; they spend the rest of their time playing within the prison grounds.
Around 80% of the inmates are serving sentences for drug-related offences, and around 75% of the total prisoner population are awaiting trial. There are on average four deaths every month inside the prison from natural causes or from violent attacks. The police rarely enter the prison.
Unlike in many other countries inmates here have the right to vote in the Bolivian national elections. Political candidates visit the prison to try to increase their support inside the community.

Income
There are several sources of income for the prisoners and those who run the establishment. Coca-Cola(actually it´s Embol, the bolivian brewery who owns the right to produce coca-cola in bolivia, who have the exclusivity rights) have an exclusivity deal whereby their products are advertised and sold inside the prison and rival brands are banned. In return they provide cash, tables, chairs, and umbrellas for the grounds. Most prisoners have jobs such as messengers, hairdressers, and shopkeepers, with many profiting from the tourist trade. Many inside the prison work as tour guides or sell handmade crafts to the visitors, and tourism provides many of them with a source of income. There is also a gambling trade, with betting on the inter-section football matches being worth up to US$20,000 a year. Players are also sometimes bought and sold between teams.
Cocaine is produced inside the compound with large laboratories producing a significant amount of the drug while other inmates utilise crude processing systems in their own cells. Consequently the amount of drug use and addiction around the prison is very high. The cocaine is then trafficked outside, meaning that the prison is a large supplier of the drug. Alcohol is also widely available and its sale is an important source of income for some of those inside the prison.

Laws
Inside San Pedro prison the inmates have developed their own laws and rules. Each sector annually elects a delegate (leader) and a financial secretary. There is little tolerance for those who have committed crimes against women or children and they are strongly disciplined by other inmates. Many are killed, and those who survive must pay for the services of the prison hospital.
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Arequipa, Peru and the Colca Canyon







Arequipa, which is the second largest city in Peru is another worth while place to visit in Peru. In my opinion, I think that the downtown area of Arequipa is one of the nicest places to visit in all of Peru. Here we took a city tour that not only shows you around the city, but takes you to a variety of places outside the city with things that are worth seeing! From there we hoped on a bus for a 2 day trip to see the worlds deepest canyon. I think the Colca Canyon is a sight to see, but I must say my favorite canyon still sits in my back door! (Grand Canyon) It´s funny how when your traveling on a budget that really try to cut cost and the biggest cost is usually food. Two weeks with my Mom and we ate a little nicer then I usually do and I think that I put on 3-4 lbs from her short visit!......MMM...It was sure nice to eat some really good meals!! At this point my trip with my Mom has come to an end I am so thankful that she came to visit and I got to spend some valuable time with her. She is flying back to Colorado and I have decided to head into Bolivia!

Puno, Peru......Lake Titicaca





One of the most interesting experiences that I have encountered on my trip so far was our visit to the floating islands of Uros, and spending an evening with a local family that lives on Lake Titicaca. The town of Puno that is located on the shore of South America's largest lake is about as ugly as they come and you might find it hard to breath here since the elevation is about 13,000 feet. A visit to the floating islands will amaze you that they built such large islands out of weeds that grow on the shore of this lake located in the highlands of Peru. After visiting the floating islands of Uros we rode in the worlds slowest boat for 4 hours to another island and there we stayed one night with a local family that lived on the island. They had no running water or power on this island, and although is was by no means clean, staying with a local family and getting to experience their life for an evening is a memory I.......and can probably say for my Mom too, we will never forget. That night we dressed up in their clothes and went dancing and looking back I can't help but think of what life would be like since most have never even left this island.

Cusco, Peru ...MACHU PICHU
















Arriving in Cusco was like arriving to the tourist center of the world. The type of people traveling here was not like the type of people that I had been running into over the last 5 months. Here it was hard to find the usual long term travelers and the place was loaded with 2-3 week travelers. The city is really not that nice outside of the central square, but there are a million places to go and things to do and see. As I have been traveling with my Mom for a while, we packed in as much things as we could as fast as possible and I really have to say there are things around Cusco that make this place a very worthy place to visit. There are so many ruins to see including Machu Pichu that if you are looking for full description you better be ready to read a book! I think I will leave it as I am so glad that I got to spend some quality time with my Mom on such an exciting adventurous place to visit! The brief rundown was we took a tour of the City, went on The Sacred Valley tour, and saw some of the ruins located near Cusco too. I as most people say that Machu Pichu is one of the best things I have seen so far in South America and I am glad to have it checked off my to do list!